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Thursday 13 November 2008

bathing into the northern cenotes


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We leave Cancun for a several-day loop when in each stop Mayan ruins stand. But on the way and to cut down the stifling heat of the day, a network of water-filled sinkholes fed by subterranean rivers offers a bath of salutary coolness. The area around the town of Valladolid gathers three of the most beautiful cenotes, the cenote Zaci in the heart of the city, the cenote Dzitnup Xkeken where the stalactites are reflected in the calm and pure waters of the grottoe and the cenote Samula where a light shaft gushes out from the ceiling and a poplar, settled at the edge of this hole, lets its roots gliding over several meters down to the sapphire-tinted water.
On the road to Chichen Itza, we divert from this aquatic pleasures once for the Balankanche grottoes. This long dimly-lit cavity seeps under the ground in a overheated atmosphere. We end this subterranean stroll by diving again into another cenote, the Ik Kil one, a genuine natural swimming pool where the surrounding wall doesn't array itself in blue mosaics but a smooth rock inlaid with moss and thin hanging roots.

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Thursday 25 October 2007

Paradisiac beaches on the Koh Phi Phi island

Steep rocky walls that a green and lush nature trickles over. Strips of sand gnaw the rock to form superb bays. The island of Koh Phi phi is actully composed of 2 islands : Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Leh.
Phi Phi Don is characterized by 2 crescents of sand linking the two headlands of the island which shape a big "X" within the blue immensity. As for Phi Phi Leh, it's a protected area and it's impossible to stay and sleep on. It harbours some grottoes swallows get in to build their nest, a nest they make with their saliva. Climbing bamboo ladders, a few life-risking villagers go to pick them. These nests are famous for their aphrodisiac powers and are an ingredient of Chinese soups. At 2500 euros a kilo, these nests are considered as national treasure and the grottoes entrances are guarded. Phi Phi Leh is also famous to be the scenery of the movie "the beach" and full of scuba diving and snorkelling spots dot the coastline.

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The sea bed gives the gorgeous beaches their cue. Funnel-shaped corals and red gorgones spread out and extend the rock while anemones and giant clams attempt to cling to. Seaweeds and mosses struggle to occupy the last free parcels of rock. Soft corals dance according to the currents and hide throngs of angel- and butterfly-fish. Close to the surface, the trumpet-fish wanders about alone while near the bottom, the struggle is fierce for some crumbs of corals.
The parrot-fish shatters the coral and the clown-fish frantically swims among the anemones. Within the chinks of the rock, porcupine- and box-fish clumsily move about. Turtles, black-tip sharks and lion-fish complete this submarine watercolour.
Everyday, the same ritual which turns into a deep pleasure : fixing the mask and going underwater to discover the submarine kingdom. An intoxicating kingdom we fall in love a little bit more after each dive.

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Monday 6 August 2007

The Buddhist grottoes of Longmen

Luoyang, 5 hours by bus south from Xi'an. The terminus of the number 81 local bus is located at the park entrance of the grottoes of Longmen. On the Unesco world heritage list, the cliffs of the east and west river banks were hollowed out and ornated with Buddhist motifs. The granite gruyère cheese was carved by the faithfuls. The rock clusters niches which formerly sheltered Buddha's representations. Because most of the statues are missing or eroded by the time devastation. Without viing with the splendid northern grottoes of Yungang, the relaxing stroll is flanked by the river on a side and by the cliff on the other one. The giant Buddha surrounded by stone warriors is the main attraction on the east bank.

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At the end of the cliff, a bridge strides over the river and the walk carries on the opposite bank. A temple without any tourists offers a great point of view on the cut cliff that looks out over us a few minutes before.

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A second bridge takes us to the park entrance while a veil of darkness concludes the immovable spectacle of the grottoes of the dragon gate.

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